Review: Bloody Mary's
The Hugh’s Cut of prime rib is huge. I can feel the same delirious grin Fred Flintstone has when the drive-in waitress tips their car with the gigantic ribs at the start of each show plastered across my face – it’s definitely a yabba dabba doo moment. Slow cooked over 24-hours, the truffle and green peppercorn-rubbed prime rib has become an institution among the city’s carnivore set, while its arrival by cart and ceremonious carving at the table brings an anachronistic element of romance and glamour to dining in the city. It helps when the star attraction is some of the finest beef you’ll ever eat; lightly caramelised on the outside with a slight chew to the crust and blushingly medium rare. Doused in a light jus and accompanied by the rich, buttery layers of a delicate garlic gratin, delightfully crisp broccolini and four decadent sauce options (horseradish, béarnaise, peppercorn and garlic butter), it’s a masterclass in culinary cunning in which big, bold beefy flavours meet melt-in-the-mouth tenderness. We have fun experimenting with flavour combinations of the sauces and, between sips of the pepper-spiked velvetiness of a Peter Lehmann The Barossan Shiraz, I mentally add it the top of my final meal wish list.
Resplendent with dark oak and buttery leather, Bloody Mary’s is a lavish affair where broody intimacy teams up with the flashing steel of Laguiole cutlery, glittering bulbous burgundy Riedel glassware, cowhide-backed bar chairs, and a seamlessly choreographed ballet of flawless, white-coated front-of-house efficiency. We’re won over the instant the champagne cart pulls up and starts dispensing chilled flutes of Veuve Clicquot, the seduction as effortless as the super friendly and attentive, always-there-when-you-need-them staff. We snack on warmed mammoth olives, their saltiness tempered by the nuttiness of shaved parmesan and rightly legendary braised lamb croquettes. Entrees of smoked wagyu beef tartar (humming with a chilli tingle) and gloriously fluffy and flavoursome twice-baked goat cheese soufflé hit all the right notes alongside a Squealing Pig pinot noir and Giesen Vineyard Selection sauvignon blanc. With time for one last surprise, our eyes widen with delight when the Cambridge burnt cream and baked chocolate mascarpone cheesecake touch down, followed, on cue, by the liquid dessert and cognac trolley.