Rex Ormandy of Christchurch specialty wine shop Vino Fino knows more than most about the phenomenal success of the New Zealand industry. He tells Cityscape you don’t need to be a connoisseur to appreciate a good wine.

In 25 years at the helm of Vino Fino, you would have seen plenty of changes in the wine industry? The past 25 years virtually covers the history of the modern New Zealand wine industry. When I first set up Vino Fino in 1993, Marlborough was still an emerging wine region with only around a dozen producers. Central Otago and Canterbury were making their first fledgling steps. Gisborne was the major producing region and Müller-Thurgau was the most popular variety. So the growth in volume, quality and variety has been enormous. The wine industry is now a major part of the New Zealand economy, driven mainly by Sauvignon Blanc, which is now recognised as the world-leading style. New Zealand has become a world-class wine-producing country.

How has Vino Fino changed over that time? Physically Vino Fino has changed very little. We have traded from the same premises apart from being closed for a year following the earthquakes in 2011. However our range and the way we sell our products has changed immensely. The range of wines available from New Zealand and overseas is now huge and we have to continually assess wines for inclusion in our range. Also you can add to that the recent growth in craft beers and spirits (especially gin). Technology now plays an important role in how we communicate about wine, with email, social media and website presence.

What trends do you see emerging among wine producers and consumers? As with many things there is an increasing awareness of the sustainability of products. Organic production, reduction of the carbon footprint of wine transportation and packaging all play a part. Wine consumers have never had it so good – the quality around the world is significantly higher now than it has ever been. The downside of this is that many wines taste very similar and boring, lacking the character and charm that can excite. Opposite this is the growth of ‘natural’ wines. These are made with less intervention, often using ancient techniques, eschewing the ‘chemistry lab’ approach of large producers.

Any new wineries or producers you think people should be taking notice of? Probably some of the most exciting things in the world of wine are taking place right here in the North Canterbury region. Local producers are testing the boundaries – Pegasus Bay led the way and are now joined by names such as Greystone with their ‘world first’ vineyard-fermented Pinot Noir; Black Estate and The Hermit Ram with their natural approach to winemaking; Pyramid Valley and Bell Hill are cult status labels; and wineries such as Terrace Edge, The Boneline, Georges Road, Mountford Estate, The Crater Rim and Waipara Hills all produce world-class, distinctive North Canterbury wine.

What’s your favourite drop? As a wine retailer I get to try wines in every style from all over the world. I do like to try different things but I love Pinot Noir and can’t go past a quality Sauvignon Blanc or Rosé in the summer. I also love Riesling and there’s Chenin Blanc. Oh, and a well-aged Hawkes Bay Syrah and New Zealand Chardonnay are sublime – if it is a good bottle of wine, I enjoy it.

What should people look for when trying to match a wine with a particular type of cuisine? The days of strictly matching wine and food are long gone. There are some wine and food matches that just do not work but basic rules like matching sweet and heat, red meat and red wine can be followed. Dishes can often contain a myriad of flavours, so strongly flavoured wines can often clash. But mostly these days wine is consumed without food – think social situations – so it is always best to firstly choose a wine you enjoy drinking, but don’t be scared to experiment with flavours and styles.

What do you look for in a good wine? It is such a truism, but wine preference is such a personal choice. It is what makes wine such an exciting and interesting thing. Foremost, it should be enjoyable and most are, to an extent, but good wines need to have balance and depth of flavour. You don’t need to be a connoisseur to appreciate a good wine – it is the ‘deliciousness’ factor that counts. The very best should be memorable. In Europe most regions have well-defined criteria for categories of wine that reflect quality, history, and winemaking styles and techniques. Here in New Zealand we don’t have a classification guide and it is wine show medal results and wine reviews that are used to give guidance as to a wine’s quality. Or go to a reputable wine retailer such as Vino Fino to guide your selection.

vinofino.co.nz