As soon as the rich aromas hit us at the top of the (twenty-seven) stairs, we know we’re in for a spectacular culinary experience. Sure – both the fact that Twenty Seven Steps is helmed by formidable foodie duo Emma Mettrick and Paul Howells (formerly of Little Bistro fame) and a quick glance around confirming that it’s comfortably packed on a Wednesday night are also strong indicators – but it’s the immediately comforting and simultaneously ravenousness-inducing incense of serious gourmet cred that floats us to our table.
Like a cunning optical illusion, the slinky single New Regent Street shop front entrance (about to be transformed into a hip alfresco bar!) makes way for an intimate and swishy second-floor dining space that spans the width of four shops. The space channels bistro-luxe sophistication sans the stuffy pretension; timber floors and dark wood tables – complete with guttering candlelight and vintage, purposefully mismatched, crockery – are joined by eclectic retro light fittings dangling from the ceiling, black and white tiling (done right) and a slick, black-tiled bar infusing timeless Euro-cool. Should you tire of watching the restaurant’s lively hum, enchanting rounded windows offer views of the peaceful pastel parade of Spanish-style villas across the street.
Our evening starts with complimentary slabs of still-warm homemade rosemary, fennel and feta bread which, as one of the major contributors to the heavenly aromas, is a crafty culinary contradiction: light and moist with a chewy crust, yet packed with a herby, moreish flavour density, similar to a well-seasoned roast chicken. It’s brilliant with sips of the fine-beaded bubbles gently boiling in lightly condensation-frosted flutes. Equally effervescent is our host Megan (Meg) Stelma who, tapping into an impressive photographic memory, takes us through their exciting new summer three-course menu, which showcases the finest locally-sourced goodness where possible.
We start with blackboard special sautéed squid, in which the tender white links are teamed with chunks of feisty smoky Chorizo Garcia, cherry tomatoes, chickpeas and peppery rocket. Pulling it all together is a symphonic bright green salsa verde resplendent and tangy with lemon and garlic.
The two duck egg-sized quenelles of silken duck liver parfait become an Instagram-worthy immediate favourite, coating the mouth like a fine foie gras – it’s eye-rollingly good when slathered on slices of crisp, homemade white bread and paired with the sticky sweetness of an intense muscovado and onion jam with a devilish bite.
The excitement mounts with the arrival of our mains: exceptionally-prepared pan-fried groper stacked in a towering tangle of fresh salad greens, crunchy roasted nuts and seeds and the genius of sweet/tart explosive pops of pomegranate seeds. It’s joined by the classic signature Twenty Seven Steps chargrilled aged Canterbury beef fillet, a meltingly meaty hit. Some of the most exceptional beef that’s ever touched a fork, it’s capped by the earthy richness of a bone marrow crust and served alongside buttery layers of piquant horseradish and potato gratin and a tastebud-teasing brandy, garlic and red wine jus.
Admittedly we’re comfortably full by this point, but neither of us is willing to leave without tapping the baked chocolate ganache (seriously, who could?). It proves to be one of the night’s best choices.
The ganache’s firm exterior making way for a dreamy molten choc explosion and a next-level pairing with both the roasted crunch of spiced hazelnuts and a ravishingly bitter/sweet syrupy orange oil, while the velvety cool of a homemade crème fraîche ice cream cuts through the delicious decadence, inciting duelling forks over our epic finale. twentysevensteps.co.nz