Stepping his way
Chef Paul Howell brings a wealth of international experience to his cuisine at New Regent Street’s Twenty Seven Steps.
How would you describe the cuisine you create? We’ve always described our cuisine both at The Little Bistro and Twenty Seven Steps as rustic European.
Tell us about your career journey? I’ve been in a professional kitchen in some shape or form since I was 15. I’ve worked in England, Wales, France, Sweden and Ireland.
What’s new at Twenty Seven Steps? We’ve just recruited a new pastry chef called Yusri from Indonesia. He’s creating some lovely things.
What’s the No. 1 dish people should try? Our venison tenderloin from Tai Tapu is my favourite dish at present.
What are some interesting trends you’re seeing in food? We’re pretty classical when it comes to food. I keep abreast of what’s happening but I don’t follow trends just for the sake of it.
What has been the oddest food fad? Too many to mention. I find the whole fake meat thing particularly bizarre.
What has been the most surreal moment in your career to date? Talking to chef Simon Gault in The Little Bistro about a week after opening was pretty surreal. He was awesome.
And the most challenging? Working the Rugby World Cup dinner in 1999 – 3000 people, six courses, 40 chefs. A logistical nightmare.
Who are your culinary heroes? Nigel Slater, Skye Gyngell and Yotam Ottolenghi.
Where do you draw inspiration for dishes? Books, travel and eating out.
What’s your go-to meal to whip up when you’re not working? Always curry.
What’s your favourite dish to indulge in? Any chocolate dessert.
Is there a particular book or author that has inspired you in your life or career? White Heat by Marco Pierre White.
Three key ingredients to a tasty dish? Onions, garlic, lots of herbs.
If you weren’t doing what you are now, what would you want to be doing? I’d like to own a pub.
What’s one thing people may not know about you? I’m addicted to Location, Location, Location.
Where do you go to –
Wine and dine with friends: Shepherd, in Wellington.
Morning coffee: Caffeine Lab.
Blow off some steam: Smash Palace and Moon Under Water.
Shop up a storm: I hate shopping.
Get away from it all: Thailand.