Do you adore a beautiful buttery Chard, or do you want to swish it all directly down the drain? As it turns out, this dry white grape is somewhat divisive.

The recent WineFriend Great NZ Wine Census show that Canterbury’s favourite white wine is Chardonnay, with a quarter of the votes going the way of this classic variety.

And our least favourite white wine is… Chardonnay! More than a quarter of Cantabrians hate it. So what is it about Chardonnay that gives Canterbury wine drinkers such strong opinions?

We asked wine reviewer and WineFriend chief tasting officer Yvonne Lorkin, and her answer was, well, she doesn’t know. She’s a dyed-in-the-wool Chardonnaylien and wants to be embalmed in 2014 Sacred Hill Riflemans Chardonnay when she dies. “However some folk are very much in the ‘I can’t stand it’ camp and that’s fine,” she says. “It takes all sorts, right? Perhaps they just haven’t met the right one yet.”

Possible culprit: Bad memories

What we do know is that Chardonnay got a sketchy reputation somewhere along the way, and for some people it hasn’t recovered. The 1980s became saturated with Chardys that were perhaps a little over-oaked on average. OK, a lot over-oaked. Some tasted like biting a log, or sipping a lightweight bourbon. We got the tagline ABC (anything but Chardonnay) declaring the bold and buttery wines unfashionable, and, as Yvonne puts it: “Chardonnay basically became the corduroy of wine.”

“We sifted our way through the 1990s, awash in a sea of Sauvignon Blanc and new-fangled Pinot Gris and it was all a bit tragic,” she says. “Fortunately, Kiwi wine producers didn’t totally give up on Chardonnay. Instead, they began looking seriously at how our palates were evolving to get smarter about the styles they put on the market.”

Possible culprit: Chardonnay styles

Part of the divisiveness might come from the fact there are so many styles of Chardonnay. It’s not like picking up a Sauv, where you know more or less what it’s going to taste like before you even pour a glass. Chardonnays come in classic style, dry, lemony, oaked, unoaked, or even sparkling. Chardonnay is one of the main ingredients in Champagne, and some producers make méthode traditionelle with 100% Chardonnay, often called blanc de blanc.

“Unoaked or unwooded styles of Chardonnay will appeal to those who love its citrusy, peachy punch, but not the toasty aromas and flavours of an oak-matured style,” Yvonne says. These wines are usually made in stainless steel tanks and never see the inside of a wooden barrel. Some producers call these ‘Chablis-style’ after the famous French region which typically produces unoaked Chardonnays.

Barrique or barrel-fermented Chardonnays have been fermented and often aged in oak barrels, producing a rich toasty flavour. And even within this range there are different styles. Yikes! Newer barrels have a stronger oak character than older ones, and there are different types of oak that produce different flavours.

Many people still see oak as an enemy, but Yvonne reckons you shouldn’t be afraid. “Good as gold in my view. But only when it’s deliciously balanced, not when it’s overdone – it can create raw, sawdusty flavours which are hard to chew through.”

And then there’s malolactic fermentation. This is the chemical process that makes the famous creamy, buttery flavour in many classic Chardonnays.

And finally, there are dessert Chardonnays. Not super common, but you should be aware of them so you don’t get surprised by something super sweet when you were expecting something dry to match with your coq au vin.

In summary, it pays to know what you like, and look at labels and tasting notes for tell-tale signs of oakiness or unoakiness, malolactic fermentation, and particular fruity, acidic, or mineral flavours you might like or dislike. Dessert Chardonnays usually come in a smaller bottle, and are often called “noble” or “late harvest” wines.

Yvonne’s tips for getting a style you like

“Find someone you trust who knows the styles you like, and ask them to guide you and tell you when they’ve come across something they think you’ll enjoy.

“Always read the back label or Google the wine on your phone to check other people’s reviews.

“If you buy a Chardonnay off the shelf that you don’t like, make a mental note as to why, and don’t assume all Chardonnay is going to taste like that because the bottle right next to it on the shelf could have been perfect for you. That’s where a WineFriend subscription will absolutely help to cut away all of that risk factor because we only send you the types of Chardonnay that we think you’ll like – not the others.”

Possible culprit: Differences from year to year

“It’s very vintage-dependent in terms of quality,” Yvonne says. “Its buds burst early, making them vulnerable to Canterbury’s spring frosts; its flowers are at the mercy of your nor’wester winds and those pesky autumn rains can really put a dampener on things come harvest time.”

The verdict

Maybe you just don’t like Chardonnay, and that’s fine. Maybe you don’t have the patience to find the ones you’ll love, and that’s fine too. But if you’re willing to do a little research and maybe occasionally roll the dice, it’ll pay off big time.

“The thing I love about Chardonnay is its versatility,” Yvonne says. “Winemakers can pretty much throw anything at it and a delicious drink will follow. I’m talking all manner of different combinations of oak, tank, or stainless-steel barrel fermentation and maturation, wild or cultured yeasts, malolactic ferments, or lees stirring regimes.

“Chardonnay will hold its own and allow a winemaker to put their own stamp on the style which ends up in the bottle. No matter whether you’re a fan of oaky honkers or lean, lemony styles, there’s a Chardonnay for you.”

Yvonne Lorkin’s pick of amazing Canterbury Chardonnays

“Canterbury produces some outstanding, iconic Chardonnays.”

·         Greystone Erin’s Reserve Waipara Chardonnay
·         Pegasus Bay Waipara Chardonnay
·         The Boneline Sharkstone Waipara Chardonnay
·         Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Chardonnay
·         Bell Hill Chardonnay
·         Black Estate Netherwood Waipara Chardonnay

“Plus there are very tasty examples to be had from Tiki, Torlesse, Waipara Hills, Sherwood Estate, Muddy Water and Whistling Buoy.”

winefriend.co.nz